May 2, 2021

MOM’S EGG ROLLS

Long story short: There are a handful of broken links between both sides of my family. Traditions have gotten complicated, distances have separated, and history blurred and hidden. Flash forward to today, it has been a long time coming to finally have the opportunity to dive a little deeper into our family’s food… After I […]


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Long story short:

There are a handful of broken links between both sides of my family.

Traditions have gotten complicated, distances have separated, and history blurred and hidden.

Flash forward to today, it has been a long time coming to finally have the opportunity to dive a little deeper into our family’s food…
After I got over feeling like a burden for even asking,

I convinced my Mom to finally allow me to document her process for egg rolls,

And let me just say, the depths of how much more there is to it than simply something a person consumes, sunk deeper than anticipated.

I asked her what this particular dish meant to her and if there were memories she had or a story to tell.

She responded,
Before grandmother turned schizophrenic and after migrating to America during the silent war,
“We would all sit around in a circle and everyone had a task. Dicing, slicing, peeling…
So everyone can help.
Even little ones.
You remember.
Egg rolls are more involved.
We usually eat on special occasions.
But the wait and work was all worth it.
That’s why when we do it, we make a huge batch to freeze after we roll and keep for up to a month to fry up frozen.”

… As she spoke, and I looked around to see my Aunts and Uncles and loved ones, I could envisioned them as children, flashing back to years before my time, sharing and preparing the same way as they did in that very moment.

It resonated…
Just how powerful food can be.
Just how strong connections can hold,
Just how emotional it can feel,
And just how overlooked,
These simple moments,
Can actually be,
Some of the grandest moments…
That stand the test of time.

(Thank you for showing me Mom. Now I can see the process beyond the dedicated role of separating egg roll wrappers haha!)


“In the childhood memories of every good cook, there’s a large kitchen, a warm stove, a simmering pot and a mom.”
— Barbara Costikyan (10/22/84 New York Magazine) ‘Charles Wysocki’s Americana Cookbook’

Mom’s Egg Rolls (Large Batch)

Clear Garlic Dipping Sauce:

  • 1 clove of garlic, minced

  • 1 cup sugar

  • 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar (milder vinegars work well too!)

  • 1/2 cup fish sauce

  • 1 Tbs chili garlic sauce (optional)

  • 1 cup cold water (add gradually, may not use all)

  1. Stir to dissolve honey with the water. Add the remainder of ingredients and mix until thoroughly combined.

Egg Rolls:

  • 3 cups soaked, glass noodles or bean thread noodles (not rice vermicelli)

  • 3 small sweet onions (or 1 large)

  • 3 cups carrots, julienned or finely shredded

  • 3-4 large eggs (more or less depending on how well the filling holds together)

  • 2 pounds ground pork

  • 1 (2.5 oz.) package dried sliced ear mushrooms

  • 1 Tbs fish sauce

  • 1 Tbs sea salt

  • 1 tsp black pepper

  • 3-4 packages spring roll pastry wrappers (1 package of egg roll wrappers is typically 20-25 count)

  • 1 gallon peanut oil (or any high-temperature neutral oil for frying)

  1. In a large mixing bowl, soak the glass noodles in water until they soften.

  2. Afterwards, drain the noodles then return to the bowl and combine all of ingredients together until evenly distributed.

  3. Using a large cast iron or dutch oven, pour in the cooking oil and bring to medium heat or until it reaches a frying temperature (between 350°F – 375°F).

  4. In the meantime, wrap the egg rolls, by placing 1-2 Tbs of the mixture at the bottom corner of a single egg roll wrapper. Carefully roll the corner upwards, tucking the corner in, then folding the right and left corners to the center. Continue to roll upwards then seal the top corner with a scrambled egg white. Repeat with the remaining wrappers until all is used up.

  5. When ready, fry in small batches until the egg rolls are golden and the filling is cooked. Transfer the finished egg rolls to a paper-towel lined colander, or cooling rack.

  6. Finally, serve alongside the clear garlic dipping sauce and enjoy!